Waste vs. second-hand
The problem, as Kenya and others see it, is that there is currently no distinction between textiles that cannot be reused and clothes than can be resold on the second-hand market — at least when it comes to shipments.
Under the international system by which goods are categorized for import and export, there is one category for worn clothes and another for used rags and textile scraps, but there is no separate code for textile waste that is too damaged to be resold.
As a result, all textiles — used, scrap and damaged clothes — get bundled together when shipped. Export restrictions would prevent unusable fabrics from ending up in landfills, but would also limit exports of second-hand garments. That would damage the local second-hand economy in Kenya, which has already enacted measures to guarantee it only imports high-quality textiles, said Njenga from the Mitumba Association.
“The reason we are being so vocal is because these people are trying to bring in new protocols when we have already been doing this for 40 years and have already developed our own,” she said.
Ola Bakowska, circular textiles strategist at the Circle Economy Foundation, noted that the real problem is the sheer amount of textiles being produced. “The conversation on import bans should not deter from the main problem — which is addressing production volumes,” she said.
The textile sorting and recycling industry has also cited flaws in the proposal, saying it would add “administrative and financial burdens” to an already struggling sector, as they would be responsible for notifying and getting consent from importing countries.
GIPHY App Key not set. Please check settings